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Canvas tarps -

On receiving your tarp, we recommend you put a light spray of water over it to allow the canvas thread to expand into the holes made by the sewing machine. Allow it to dry fully and then it will be ready for use.

Always tie your tarp down with flexible ties which will allow for the fabric movement in different conditions. Expect around a 5% shrinkage/expansion as your tarp dries out after the rain.

Ensure you always let your canvas tarp dry fully after use before folding it away for storage.

For extra waterproofing go to your local camping shop and by some re-proofer. This is the treatment used to make canvas more durable and waterproof

If your canvas tarp gets mouldy, spray a weak solution of white vinegar (15:1) over the tarp and let it dry. Brush off the mould with a soft broom. The vinegar will continue to work over the next few weeks killing off the remaining spores.

These Installation Instructions are applicable to the following models:

  • FL-2202 – (Does not include filter or fittings, suitable for farm chemicals)
  • FL-3203 – (Does not include filter, includes 2 elbow fittings, suitable for farm chemicals)
  • FL-30, FL-35, FL-40, FL-43, FL-44, FL-60, plus the farm chemical range FL40C and FL60C.

About Your Water Pump (Read Carefully Before Installing)

Your new pump is ideally suited to a coffee cart, caravan, boat and camping applications. It will happily supply water for your sink, hand basin, toilet or shower. It can pump either fresh or salt water. The pump uses an inbuilt pressure switch and will turn itself on when it detects a drop in water pressure. This means that if the water supply empties or there is an air leak in the suction line the pump cannot turn itself off. If the pump is left unattended it should be turned off at the power source.

Water from the factory testing may come out of the pump when you remove the plugs.

Most pumps come with a filter and three fittings. Use the most suitable fitting for your set up.

Plumbing.

The pump is self-priming.  Depending on your pump model the suction lift will be up to 2 metres and the head will be up to 5 metres. The pump won’t be damaged if run dry for short periods. For best performance mount the pump as close as practical to the tank. It can be mounted either horizontally or vertically (with a retaining strap), but keep the motor above the pump head to reduce the chance of water damage to the electrics. Never restrict the inlet or the pump will cavitate.

There is no need to install a valve between the tank and the pump. Make sure you use an appropriate suction hose between the tank and pump, and that there are no air leaks at the join. Ensure the suction hose is free from sharp bends or kinks. Warming the hose first with hot water makes it easier to push over the fitting. An accumulator tank can be used to extend the life of the pump and to ensure quieter operation.

Electrical

Input voltage range for 12V pumps is 10-14V. For 240V pumps, it is 220-250V. All pumps must be fuse protected. Recommended fuse is 15 amps (240V model only needs 10 amps). Pump should be operated on its own circuit (except 240V models). If the pump is installed in an area where inflammable vapors may exist, you must protect any electrical connections with mechanical protection to prevent sparking. Poor or inadequate protection can lead to sparking and the resultant explosion can cause injury or death. The pump will run differently depending on atmospheric conditions and load. A qualified electrician must perform all electrical work.

Installation Instructions.

  1. Keep in mind which pump model you are installing (refer to package label). If mounting outside, protect pump from weather. For rough roads you may need to make the pump extra secure since the feet may not hold.
  2. Hold the pump in position and mark where the holes need to be drilled to mount the pump. Make sure there is enough room to install the filter, fittings and hoses (as applicable)
  3. Drill the holes, but don’t mount the pump yet. This gives you more flexibility to install the water lines.
  4. Remove the plugs from both the inlet and outlet sides of the pump (Not applicable to FL-2202 and FL-3203).
  5. The arrow on the outlet side of the pump indicates water flow direction. If the pump does not have an arrow, turn it so both the inlet and outlet are closest to you. The inlet will be on the left, outlet on the right. (the FL2202 has the inlet on the right)
  6. Install the filter by pressing it firmly into the inlet housing (wetting first helps). Twist gently as you push the filter in. Engage the locking collar (Not applicable to the FL3203 or the FL-2202).
  7. Install your chosen fitting on the outlet side (wetting first), and engage the collar to lock the fitting in place.
  8. Install the ½” suction rated hose (3/8” on FL-2202 and FL-3203) onto the inlet. Stainless steel clamps are essential to marine environments, and recommended elsewhere.
  9. Install ½”outlet line (3/8” on FL-2202 and FL-3203), again using stainless clamps as applicable.
  10. Bolt the pump in place ensuring you are not stressing either of the water lines. Please note that stainless steel bolts are essential for marine environments, and recommended elsewhere.
  11. Install a 15 amp rated switch near the pump. (10 amp for 240V models)
  12. Run the active line using electrical cable from power source to switch. Run cable from switch to positive wire (red) on the pump. Make sure it is fuse protected. Run negative (black) to an earth source (if none, run back to the power source). (For 240V models, simply plug into an approved 240V 10 amp power source)
  13. Fill the tank with water to a level that ensures complete coverage of the tank outlet.
  14. Check for leaks. Check all hose clamps for tightness.
  15. Test run pump. Listen for the pump being noisy, water flow not being smooth or the pump jumping around. This is a sign that the pressure switch is going on and off as the pump runs and it means you need to adjust the system until this no longer occurs. Do NOT continue running the pump.

How to choose the right 12 volt pump for your set up:

Automatic 12 volt pumps (will turn on when you turn on the tap):

  • to supply water to one tap with town pressure - choose the FL2202 
  • to spot spray weeds or wash down your ute or horse after a muddy day - choose the FL3203
  • to supply lots of water in a low pressure environment - try the FL30
  • to supply town pressure to a 35 PSI Hot Water Service in a caravan, you will need the FL35
  • to supply 40 PSI town pressure to 3 outlets (shower, toilet sink) in a caravan try the FL40
  • to supply a variable flow up to 50 PSI with no need for a pressure tank try a Jabsco ParMax 2.9
  • to supply 3 outlets in a marine environment at 10.9 lpm try the Jabsco ParMax 2.9
  • to supply 40 PSI town pressure to 3 outlets in a marine environment try the Jabsco Par Max 3.5 
  • to supply town water pressure to a cabin with lines of 3 metres plus, or a head of 3 metres plus try the FL60. This pump is also great for non-continuous water transfer.
  • to supply 60 PSI to 5+ outlets at 18.9lpm in a marine environment try the Jabsco ParMar Plus 5.0

Manual 12 volt pumps (will turn on when power is supplied):

  • to pump water from a creek to your camp site, try the in-line or submersible IL200 Rule
  • to pump continuously or to transfer diesel, try the in-line or submersible IL280P
  • to continuously pump high volumes of salt water or diesel in a narrow space try the inline or submersible IL500P
  • to continuously pump grey water from a water tank or a trench, try the submersible CSP50 
  • to transfer oil, grey water from your fish tank or to empty your bilge try the Rule Bilge pump range

12 Volt Macerator pumps

240 Volt pumps

  • Single storey house pump - HMC4SA
  • Two storey house pump or irrigation system - HMC6SC
  • Irrigation system or to pump up a 50 m + slope - HMC8SC
  • Irrigation system, slope of 70 m + or commercial set up - HMC10SC

 

 

Multiflex Steering Cables are simple to measure up and replace.

Please check this link to see how to measure your boat for a Multiflex Steering Cable Kit.

This video shows how to install a gereric kit.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJ8UruO-_a0

Multiflex engine control cable is manufactured from non corrosive materials. The Multiflex Easy Connect Rotary Helm engine control cable has a lubricated stainless steel inner cable that makes for maximum efficiency. They suit most brands of engines from 1968 to now and are suitable up to 200HP engines.

Steering kits include a planetary geared helm, 90 bezel kit and quick connect steering cable with stainless steel ends. Kits are available from 8 feet to 22 feet (2,43m to 6.71m) and are in 1 foot increments. If your boat has not been set up with a steering kit before, then you will need to add one of the three alternative engine connection kits.

Multiflex steering cables can be attached directly to the tilt tube on all popular brands of engines. It has a minimum bend radius of 200mm and a stroke length of 228mm. These cables are compatible with most Teleflex and Ultraflex helms and cables, and other brands.

Most of the problems lie with the fact that water hates being moved. Here are some ways to reduce the noise:

Don’t over-tighten the screws on the base. Over-tightening the pump’s attachment screws compresses the rubber mountings, hindering their ability to absorb sound energy.

Have a truly rigid mounting base. If you knock on the proposed base and it responds like a drum, it’s going to worsen pump noise.  Another effective solution is to place a small piece of carpet between the pump and its base.

Use the thinnest hold-down screws that will adequately hold the pump.

Use flexible piping. It is surprisingly effective at dampening sound - try including about 350 mm of truly flexible piping between in a very loose loop between the pump and any hard plumbing on the pump inlet and outlet. If they are unable to move freely a lot of noise will be transmitted via these pipes. The difference in transmitted noise is so great that it can be worthwhile connecting each pipe using a full loop.

Avoid elbow fittings close to the outlet port. They cause turbulent water flow and also back pressure – both of which generate noise. Use smooth curves rather than right angle bends.

Prevent vibration in the wall cavity.  Another cause of transmitted noise including water hammer is vibration where plumbing passes through a wall. During installation ensure the pipes are unable to move especially where they go through a wall. Use plastic foam or insulation to keep them in place. 

Trapped air causes plumbing to rattle. It is desirable to bleed all air from the system to prevent this.

Add an accumulator tank. This will dramatically reduce the noise, pulsation, pump circulation and will extend the life of your pump. The result is a smooth and quiet stream of water.

If you follow these steps you will have a pump which makes no more noise than a good sewing machine. Truly.

If your pump is new and the pump suddenly stops working or won't stop pumping, your pressure switch will have failed. The most commen cause of this problem is when your pump is not matched closly enough to the various outlets i.e. you have a 30PSI 10 LPM Hot Water Service, a 20 PSI 5 LPM toilet and a 40 PSI 5 lpm taps.

The best way to get around the variety of demands on the one pump is to either start with a Jabsco or Sureflo pressure pump which can supply water at a wide range of pressure and flow rates, or add in an accumulator or pressure tank. 

An accumulator tank is installed just after the pump and it will hold a body of pressurised water and which can be drawn down on by your various taps at their different rates to match their needs. As the volume reduces the pump will kick in and refill the pressure tank. 

This will reduce your pump's noise, draw on power, save your pressure switch and will extend the life of your pump - all in one!

Designed to regulate the delivery pressure, the switch works by turning the pump off when the set pressure is reached, and turns the pump back on again if the pressure drops. This sensitive piece of equipment can fail occasionally but it is easy to replace.

If you have a 240 volt model pump print these instructions and give them to your electrician.

1. Disconnect the pump from the power supply.

2. On the end of the pump is a square box. This is the pressure switch. With a Phillips head screwdriver gently remove the screw in the middle and remove the cover.

3. Remove the two red wires from the pressure switch and place them so you can reconnect them in the correct side of the new switch.

4. Unscrew the two screws on the sides of the switch.

5. Remove the old switch ensuring that you don’t dislodge (or lose!) the O ring underneath.

6. Replace with the new switch following these steps in the reverse order.

7. Connect the pump to your system again. 

 

This animated video gives an explanation of the working of centrifugal pumps. The importance of priming, cavitation & NPSH and commonly used impeller types are also illustrated. 

Mechanical design aspects of centrifugal pump such as water sealing arrangement and bearing housing are also well explained here.
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BaEHVpKc-1Q

Replacing the motor on your FL pump is a simple procedure.

1 Undo the central screw on the square pressure switch, which is the square box on one end of the pump.

2. Remove the cap of the pressure switch and slide out the two red wires attached to the pressure switch. 

3. Undo the four long screws on the end of the pump head and remove the pump head.

4. Attach the pump head to the new motor using the four long screws. Slide the two wires from the new motor into the pressure switch and replace the switch cap.

5. Test the pump.

If your 12 Volt or 24 Volt pump has stopped working then you can determine if the cause is a failed pressure switch by following these steps;

1 Disconnect the pump from the power supply.

2 Connect the pump directly to your battery. If the pump runs then the fault is with the installation and not the pressure switch.

3. If the pump still does not work, disconnect the power supply.

4. On one end of the pump is a square box. This is the pressure switch. With a Phillips head screwdriver gently remove the screw in the middle and take off the cap.

 5. Slide out the two wires and touch them together. Put power to the pump. If your pump runs then the fault is in the switch. You can order a replacement switch from the Pump Parts section on this website.

 

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